RRefinement and portability are the distinctive elements of the Stefano Mortari’s Collections, always characterized by a measured and sophisticated taste that continues also in the Fall-Winter 2019/20 Collection.
“In the shadow of a forest” is the stylist’s chosen theme for the new Season, who let himself be inspired by the most intimate and sublime expressions of the vegetation, to seek a natural and poetic femininity.
The collection’s garments express many natural echoes, as in the bark plots, the animalier patterns of jacquard sweaters and in the different “ramage” textures.
The nature inspired forms are nevertheless “distilled” into pure, contemporary geometries, until they push themselves into an almost “urban” world: the cocoon shapes become more spindly or otherwise maxi, and the petal sleeves draw abstract and extended lines .
The thought of a naturally sophisticated total-look is emboded in all the garments of the female wardrobe: elongated lines coats, soft shapes jackets, the light and crispy black tuxedo, big or slim pants, reversible hoods and a sweaters collection, revisited in sleeves and necks.
The evening is elegant and sober, almost masculine, interpreted in crêpe fabric with transparent vain details and long fringes. The garment of the season si the trench coat “urban-cool”, finely declined in technical fabric, light and clear, designed to be wrinkled in the travel bag.
Knitwear, which has always been the highest expression of Stefano Mortari’s collections, is represented by all the finenesses, starting from the extra-fine merinos, and the most precious yarns, up to the Loro Piana cashmere. The merinos are mixed with the wool jersey rough surfaces, while fur-effect sweaters and multiple yarns, mixed with cashmere, create a surprising path of tactile philosophy.
Strong and thick fabrics -almost defensive-, build structures designed on the body, the coats with surprising lines are proposed in scuba jersey & look like precious velvets; while soft fabric and knit hoods with unexpected padding complete the possibilities for the next Season.
The harmonious richness of the materials includes the velvet in maxi and super thin ribs for jackets and trousers, confronted with the soft cashmere cloth. The preciousness of the details, ranges from the flannel with needle-punched embroidery to the jacquard fabric with foliage textures.
The collaboration with Angelo Gallamini continues, leading to the combination of different thicknesses and mood, as the three-dimensional textures fabrics, or the graphic references to the natural tones as in the typical taste of the maison. For the palette, indeed Stefano Mortari chooses the winter white, the camel, the black and unusual nuance glacé.
The woman conceived by Stefano Mortari is real and feminine, practical but sophisticated, dressed to feel comfortable with herself, knowing how to abandon herself to a dreamlike style when she chooses to be as she really is.